The Bureaucracy of a Birth Certificate in Bandra

I'd like to begin this entry with a disclaimer: I love India and this post is not meant to degrade or denigrate any part of the Indian government, rather it is a perspective from a foreigner.  The views represented are merely commentary.

The day after our son Daniel was born, I spent about fifteen minutes going through the paperwork involved in obtaining a birth certificate.  This included triple and quadruple checking his name, the spelling, our address here in Mumbai, our address back home in Minneapolis, and the details of our marriage.  I suspect it is similar to a form that one would fill out in America, maybe not the asking for our religion part though.  After finishing the forms, I was told to call the Bandra office for births and deaths in 15 days to get the birth certificate.

So I did.  On New Years Eve, I went to the office to pick it up -- but I should have known it would not be so easy ...

To start with, this is the first office (out of three) that one encounters to obtain a birth certificate.

Unfortunately, no one at the office spoke enough English and my Hindi is so basic that I had to have another newly-minted-proud-papa help me through the process.  We filled out a form and the gentlemen at desk used his computer to look up our details.  He gave me another form to fill out with Daniel's name, address, and our contact details.

We then went to a different office to give them the document request form.  I had to pay 22 rupees, found a cashier that spoke English, and she printed out a receipt for me so that I could pick up the birth certificate from the head desk.  Then I had to go and get the purple stamp of approval from a third office.  However, as I was walking over there I noticed the name on the birth certificate -- yikes!!

Unfortunately there is only one person in all of Bandra who had the authority to make my son a Wixson, he was legally a Richard!  And she was out for the day, I was told to come back the next ...

... so I did, but was told she was out for the day.  I was told to come back the next ...

... so I did, but she wasn't there.  As I walking out to the street chai stand a gentlemen came running out yelling "sir, sir!  madam is here!"

And so with the click of a keystroke on her computer, our son is legally back to being a Wixson.  Dr. Meena was a delight to talk to and was, like so many other Indians, so excited to hear my thoughts on India.  As I was suppressing the complaints about the bureaucracy and frustration with filling out so many forms only get it wrong, I realized that there are 22 million people here in this city and although the system of keeping track of all of their offspring may not be fast and efficient, it does work and that in itself is a minor miracle.

So I replied, as I always do, with my general comments about the warmth of the people, the spectacular colors and smells, and the long and complex history that continues to amaze and educate me here in India.  She smiled and thanked me and we parted ways.

And now we get to apply for U.S. citizenship, a passport, and an Indian visa for our little man -- many more lessons to come I'm sure.

So here's my question for you: what was it like getting a birth certificate where your son/daughter was born?  What comparisons can you make?  I look forward to reading your responses!

Reid and Jordan Ramble Through Ranthambore

For Thanksgiving, Jordan and I visited Ranthambore National Park on the search for a tiger.  We came away without seeing one -- just missing on several occasions -- but had a great time nonetheless.  

The wildlife highlights were:

 -- a family of mongooses

 -- a beautiful horned owl

 -- hundreds of sambar deer

-- a few crocs

-- and the true highlight, a leopard!

                                     

It was a super fun weekend with a bit driving through the countryside, at times with less-than-amazing taxi drivers, but the resort we stayed was comfortable and was plenty stocked!

Introducing Daniel Richard Wixson

On Monday morning, we awoke to a sudden surprise, our baby was ready to arrive -- about two weeks early.  Some of us still showered and shaved as if going to work as all was in a bit of a flux, but after checking in with our amazing midwife, there would be no going to school that day.  By 8:30am we were checked in at Hinduja Hospital in Khar, just a mere 8min drive from our apartment (of course Ganesh drove!).  A few hours later we were in the delivery room and just after noon Daniel came into this world.  He's a charmer and he has already got us smitten, especially with his cute little whimpers and sneezes.  Today we take him home to Silver Springs and just like that our world has changed for the better.  For awhile, I'm sure that this blog will change focus from traveling in India to parenting in India and the joys and challenges that brings.  For now, it's rest, feed, poop, change, repeat.

A Few Days in Nashik

                                     
As I look over at the list of blogs of our fellow ASB blogging friends, I've noticed that everyone seems to be a blogging funk lately.  I have felt a bit overwhelmed with experiences to get the 'ink on the paper' as we have had several shorter adventures lately that don't seem 'blog-worthy.'  Nashik is definitely blog-worthy and despite just spending two days there it's a place I'd recommend seeing.

The city revolves around the Godavari River and is one of the four holy cities that host the Kumbh Mela, the largest religious gathering for Hindus that happens every few years.  By day we explored the city, a Buddhist monastery site, and the cliche but interesting tour of Sula Vineyards, India's largest winery.  By day, the city didn't blow me away.  Like many of the million-plus populated cities in India, Nashik suffers from a case of either too many vehicles or not wide enough street and too much dust.

                                   
By night, the center of town pulses with Hinduism.  People of all ages and families of all sizes come down to the river by the main temple to light diyas, small oil lamps, that they float out into the river.  As the complex is bathed in a soft street light from above, the floating candles add immensely to the atmosphere.

From the alleys surrounding the temple area and alongside the river, we heard circles of Hindus singing with drum and finger cymbal accompaniments with varying aged participants.  For one, I tried to capture the experience with the new video camera (thanks Mom and Dad!).  The sounds were enchanting as they echoed throughout the old stones and across the river.

So it may not be Varanasi full of burning and learning and slow boat rides and river dolphins, but Nashik is a holy place worthy of attention.

Ganesh Takes Us to the Garba

Of all of the experiences that we've had here in Mumbai exploring this fascinatingly diverse and chaotic city, last night may have been the most memorable.  Our driver Ganesh invited us to celebrate Navrati with his family at their 'colony' up in Borivali, a northern suburb.  Their colony is a middle class neighborhood comprising of about 20 six-story buildings with two-room apartments -- living room and kitchen -- organized around several common outdoor areas.  This in itself was an experience.  As we went up to their apartment, neighbors poured in to say hello and have their pictures taken with us.  Ganesh and his family were very proud to show off their 'boss.'

We chatted mostly with his daughter Punam, second from the left, as she is on the India National Women's cricket team and speaks excellent English.  She left for Hong Kong this morning for a three-week international tournament and proudly showed us pictures of her playing and of course, posing with the cricket God, Sachin Tendulkar, as they practice at the same field.

Before we went, Ganesh's wife Gita gave us a traditional blessing with some of the strongest tikka paint  we've had in 2+ years in India -- it's still on our foreheads after a shower and a good scrub this morning.

                                       

From their apartment, we watched the crowd gathering on the lawn and heard the music crescendo so that by the time we joined in, there were well over 500 people all dancing.  The dance, called the Garba, is basically a two-step dance where the participants form a circle and slowly rotate counter-clockwise.  The participants would mimic each other's variations on the basic steps and through innovation and changes in the music various additions would be made.  Needless to say, Rachel was a real pro and the kids kept encouraging Mr. Reid to do the steps more correctly!

As with many experiences, we were overwhelmed with kindness by the people at the dance.  One woman just grabbed Rachel's hand and dragged her in to the circle, several boys were constantly surrounding me with encouragement, and Ganesh and his family were dancing right beside us.

The whole reason for this festival, nine nights in total, is to celebrate the Goddess Durga (pictured below).  Several of the boys I was chatting with referred to her as the Mother and we've also heard her referred to as the warrior Goddess.  She is particularly popular with Gujarati and Bengali Hindus so naturally, all of Mumbai seems to be in celebration!

After learning the steps and enjoying the locals, Punam, with her cricket connections, had arranged for us to get passes to a more elaborate private party.  Unfortunately, the party ended shortly after we arrived due to a miscommunication, but we still got to see well over 3,000 people dressed up dancing to a live band.  Interestingly, there wasn't one big circle like at the colony party we had just came from, but instead hundreds of smaller circles had developed.  Each had a different group of families or friends.  Many were filled with elaborately dressed Gujaratis and what impressed us most was the excitement amongst the 20-30 year olds who were happily dressed in traditional costumes dancing up a storm.  With all the different groups, the big stage, video screens, the colorful lights and flashy costumes, it felt like one big Indian Phish concert.

With the festival halfway through, no doubt we will experience and witness more of this amazing festival this coming week.  On Thursday, in true Mumbai fashion, families will bring their Durga statues to the beaches up and down the coast to solemnly immerse them in the sea.  

We continue feel so blessed to be a part of this extraordinary city where the culture is so vibrant and the people so welcoming.  

Welcome to Odisha (formerly Orissa)

It is cliche to write, but to say that India is a vast and diverse place would be an understatement.  For our four-day weekend commemorating Gandhi's birthday, we flew to the east coast state of Odisha.  There, we got a short glimpse into a new cuisine, language, and encountered many locals fascinated by a foreign face.

We began in the capital city of Bhubaneswar, a quixotic city with a modern set of wide, green boulevards across the train tracks from a centuries old, temple-filled, ancient city.  We enjoyed seeing temples dating back from the 7th c. right in the middle of the chaos around.  We've seen a lot of carved rock here in India, but these temples were unique for the shape of their carved domes.

Outside the city these is a cave complex that was carved out by the Jains in 1st c. B.C., several centuries before the Jains carved their caves in Ellora.  The monastic dwellings were significantly shorter and less ornate that Ellora, but still beautiful with their simplicity    

After two-hour taxi ride to the South East, we found ourselves in Konark at the lovely Lotus Eco Resort.   The resort is perched on the bank of the river (pictured below) right where the river empties out into the Bay of Bengal.  It was a luxuriously quiet retreat with friendly staff (again, so taken aback by having foreigners) and even an organic vegetable garden.

The village of Konark is also home to the massive 13th c. Sun Temple (pictured below).  In our many tours of temples here in India, this one is unique for it's abundance of symbolism and stories in the carvings.

The complex is set up as a chariot with 24 wheels, each ornately carved with eight spokes representing the different sections of the day.  Also pictured are scenes from daily life including a woman with Japanese sandals and a king receiving a giraffe from an African emissary which demonstrate the vast trade network these people had. 

 Some detail on the temple was never finished and other areas were partially destroyed by cyclones, the Portuguese, and a few Muslim raiders.

One of the dominant themes through were the erotic carvings.  Many nudes, kama sutra poses, three-ways decorated the upper panels of the walls, supposedly out of sight from the young children.

 Needless to say, this temple was another of those mind-blowing days in India where you sit back and appreciate the architectural and artistic merits of the past.

We enjoyed relaxing on the beach for the rest of our time in Konark.  It was an 8km stretch and it was just us a few unsuccessful fisherman, who entertained us with their interesting fishing methods.

A highly recommended short travel trip for anyone interested in seeing a different side to Hinduism, of India, and a quiet beach to sit and process two and half years traveling around this amazing country.

Band on the Run

Dear family, friends, and all readers of this blog...

It's been a busy month, and we haven't been the best at keeping up this year. All in all, school is going well, despite all the "teething issues" we and the community are dealing with from our transition to two buildings. But, more on ASB and India later.. I have a bit of a tangent that is related to mine and Reid's teaching career...

We all have those teachers that have inspired us. My first music teacher (other than my parents) was Tom Wells, at Ramsey K-8 in Minneapolis. My fondest memories of junior high are in that band room- gaining confidence in myself as a musician, making some of the closest friends I still have today, and ingraining in me the love for music I will carry with me always. I think of all the great opportunities I had with Tom Wells from jazz band, to pit orchestras, to concert band- playing out in the community and just loving every minute of it. Reid had the opportunity in college to work with Tom for a month long internship and gained a mentor and experience that has helped him grow as a band director.

And Tom is still giving 100% (and more) today. I don't need to tell you that the arts have been hit hard budget wise in the recent years (heck, they weren't great when I was in school), especially in the inner city where many parents can't afford rental or purchase of instruments for their kids. But enter Tom Wells, a few years from retirement, taking on a high school job (in mine and Reid's neighborhood back home) to try and rebuild a program very much beaten down. Two years ago he arrived at Roosevelt High School in Minneapolis and there were less than half a dozen students in the program. Now he's up to 80. But, the school has no money and neither do the families to support this growing program. So, Tom is running the Twin Cities marathon to raise funds for his students.

Reading about this in the news today came as a bit of a reality check. -I am also dealing with a fast growing band program (I went from 28 in 5th grade band last year to 48 this year). When I needed extra instruments this week I just mentioned it to the principal, he gave me the nod, the office staff called in an order and I will have 4 percussion kits FedExed to me within the month. Just like that. And here my junior high band director is having to run 25 miles to hopefully raise enough money to get his students instruments.

So, it took me approximately 3 seconds to run to my purse and grab my wallet. So yes, ladies and gentleman, here you were reading a blog entry about an amazing man, and now you are being solicited for a donation. If you feel compelled to help out the MPLS schools with this one, click on the link below to donate. I've also included the CBS article.

I wouldn't be the teacher I am today without him, and I hope beyond hope that I am half as passionate and inspiring to my students as he has been for countless Minneapolis students and fellow music educators.

Rachel

To Donate: Go to https://support.achievempls.org/DonateNow, Choose “MPS school, program or fund,” and enter: “Roosevelt Band on the Run.” THANK YOU!

CBS Article:
Band On The Run: Teacher To Run Marathon To Raise Instrument Money « CBS Minnesota