The Clouds are Coming...

... Which means the rains should be too! It's been very hot these days. It's so hot that I sweat walking to the gym. On the bright side the skies have been beautiful and in the evenings when we have some shade, the balcony is back to it's normal, relaxing self.

But the rains won't come for a month, or so they say. In fact, we might not even be here when they do as we leave in early June.

Until then, we'll just have to sweat it out.

Location:Perry Rd,Mumbai,India

Sabah- a postcard trip

This got a little long... but there was so much this week!!

So, you see it in the commercials, and you think to yourself, that can't be really how it looks, right? Well, Borneo really is that beautiful. All the time. Even in the city there are interesting things happening to stir the senses.

We decided on Sabah on a recommendation from some friends. Though I have loved our travels in India, I needed a break. I needed nature, space, fresh air, and just something different, and boy did Sabah deliver.

We started with a bang by going for gold and staying at an "eco island resort"- where luxury meets conservation. The super nice huts over the water, the infinity pool, snorkeling right in the hotel's bay (where we saw clown fish, giant clams, tons of different types of coral and other electric-rainbow colored fish- some of which seemed to like to swim along with us the whole time), the freshest seafood, and sunset cocktails, are paired with a marine research center on the back side of the resort devoted to the regrowth of the dwindling giant clam population as well as an education center where you can help replant damaged coral. It was 2 and a half days of pure relaxation, and a perfect way to start a vacation after a long and intense few months at school. We had some fun wildlife sightings here (in addition to the snorkeling)- monkeys that stayed in the trees instead of attacking our breakfast, as well as a monitor (a lizard that looks halfway between an iguana and a crocodile) that came up to me by the pool hoping I'd give him some of that breakfast (we also saw him the next day swimming across the little bay we snorkeled in the day before)!

Monday we hopped on a boat and taxied up into the hills to prepare for our adventure portion of the trip- an ambitious climb up Mount Kilabalu. Reid already wrote a blog entry about it, but, I have to mention just a few things we well. I was both excited and a little terrified of this climb. This was not like hiking around the woods back home, and I worried that I would not be able to complete the journey up to the top- something I wanted to do for myself, but mostly for Reid, as I knew how excited he was for this.

The way up the forest felt like something out of a mythical book. It kept changing, the fog/clouds surrounding us once in awhile, and though it wasn't all that hot (especially closer to the top), we were soaked with the humidity. Our local guide (who the park appoints and is required for the tough climb) pointed out different plants (like orchids and pitcher plants). But, but the 5th km, my legs were getting really tired, especially as the air grew thinner. Luckily, we met another couple, from London, who we completed that day's worth. Having others to help keep you distracted from just how tired you are really made a difference! We reached the base camp (6km) and were the 3rd or 4th group to make it (146 permits are issued per day), so, we were feeling pretty good about ourselves.

We started the ascent to the summit at 2:30am with our guide, all bundled up, with our headlamps. The stars were unbelievable. I think I saw 5 or 6 shooting stars (and used the opportunity to stargaze to also catch my shallow breath). But the cold and difficult climb up in the dark was NOT easy. In fact, a number of people give up along the way, get sick from the altitude or pure exertion (there were people throwing up when we got back), and there's a sign in the dorm that says that they are not responsible for theft, illness, or death (!).

Luckily, we were ahead of most people, so we were not crowded or stuck between any other groups. It's definitely a different world hiking/climbing when all you're concentrating on is a few feet in front of you. For some odd reason, a song from my level III Orff class crept into my head "Slow and steady wins the race, turtle creeps along...", I sang that to myself at least halfway up. Reid mentioned he conducted his whole concert in his head as we continued to focus on getting to the top. We got past the tree line to the rock face, which included hanging on to and climbing up with one long ominous white rope, keeping climbers on track (and from falling). Soon, the black outline of the summit was in sight. It seemed so far and yet so close. We looked behind us and down the mountain we could see a string of white lights- the headlamps of the other hikers. As the wind grew stronger and faster, we finally reached the top and got a good spot to wait for the sunrise. As I sat there, I thought about this strange and unique place. No one had attempted this climb until about a hundred years ago, as the local tribe (of which our guide came from) believed this place to be the home of their spirits and of the dead. As I saw the clouds melt and swirl around the huge and foreboding rock formations, I understood why. I have to admit to being a little moved sitting up there, freezing, feeling both proud of myself for doing it, but also being overwhelmed at nature, and humanity's attempt to understand it, be apart of it, and feel closer to the heavens, and maybe even God.

After a unique sunrise above the clouds, we started our descent the 8.5 km down. I wish we had had more time to just enjoy the scenery, but, we had a long and the toughest part of the journey in front of us, so, off we went. Needless to day, it was a lot of going down hill. We joked at that old phrase of "it's all down hill from here", as, going down hill was the most taxing and painful part. But, we made it, though aching and walking funny for a few days after, but feeling an overwhelming sense of accomplishment and thankfulness at the opportunity to even attempt such a trek. It will definitely be something we remember forever.

We spent the last couple days in the city of Kota Kinabalu. We signed up for a tour down the Klias river a couple hours south of the city, where you can see probiscus and macac monkeys as well as fireflies that fill up the trees at night, looking like periodic Christmas trees, twinkling with hundreds of those yellow/greenish lights. We also ate very well at live seafood places as well as the night market where locals and tourists alike come to eat, shop, and feel the buzz of the mix of peoples that make up Malaysia's population. We finished off the trip with a last morning on the beach, a trip to the local zoo to see the orangutangs (which live in the wild on the east side of the island), and one last fantastic dinner on the ocean before heading back to Mumbai.

We both walked away thinking about all the other things we still wanted to do. The east side of the island has just as much to offer and we are seriously considering going back next year as Borneo was so fantastic. But mostly, I was so thankful to be yet again dazzled by my travel companion. His flexibility with giving me the spa few days I needed as well as the support to get me up that mountain. We again have been reminded not just how fortunate we are in this life, but in one another.

Not a bad spring break, huh?

Rachel

Hiking Mt. Kinabalu

Growing up hiking, canoeing, portaging, skiing and in general having the imprint of a "walk-first" mentality has really shaped the way that we vacation. With several major hiking experiences under our belt (Yosemite and Dharamsala recently) we felt ready to tackle something a bit more serious. As we were planning our spring break trip to Borneo, hiking up Mt. Kinabalu just kept coming up and so we decided to go for it. After haggling to get the permit and room reservations, we had our spot -- one of 146 -- on the list to hike on April 4th.

We woke up at 6am on the 3rd of April to a carbo-filled buffet and a clear view of our target for the hike that day -- Laban Rata Guesthouse at 9,000 ft. You can actually see it in the photo below -- it's behind the small cloud, just above the center of the photograph.

After organizing our guide and finishing up the details involved with the permits/insurance, we began. The hike that day took about four and a half hours and we reached the guest house just around noon. We travelled six kilometers in length and up about 3,500 ft. As we hiked, we stopped frequently as the trail is pretty much straight up. Several sections are simply steps, others scrambling up rocky surfaces, and for a few luxurious moments you can actually get to hike at a decent grade.

Of course the surrounding environment is stunning. You start in the rain forest, travel through the cloud forest and end in the high alpine. Through the rain forest we were surrounded by orchids -- there are roughly 1,000 species in the park. Unfortunately, not all were blooming, but our helpful guide helped us find a few.

Staying up at 9,000 ft was a truly magical experience. In the evening we sat and watched the clouds form below us. As night settled in the stars came out. Since we were above the clouds the air was crisp and clear, we saw more stars that either of us had ever seen before. Stunning.

After a restless 'sleep,' we awoke at 2am to have a light breakfast and rejoined our guide at 2:30 to begin the final ascent. Our headlamps were pretty crappy, but the moon shone brightly as we followed a long white rope leading us up the rocky face. The dark morning hours passed so quickly as we were completely focused on the ascent, the white rope, and the stars above. At around 5:20 we reached the summit at 13.455 ft meaning we had traveled another 2.6 km and roughly 4,500 vertical feet in just under three hours. Not too shabby for a couple of music teachers. Needless to say, we were very proud to be up there.

We stayed at the summit almost an hour to watch the sunrise. We could easily see the lights of the city of Kota Kinabalu, a hundred km away, as well oil rigs out in the South China Sea and as the sun rose, we had a clear view of the northern coast of the island -- another hundred k's to the north. Having never summitted a mountain before, this peaceful calm combined with the rush of adrenaline, the crisp cold air, and the incredible sense of accomplishment was a unique feeling for both of us that we will never forget.

As we descended, which were told and we can confirm, we tackled the toughest part of the hike. With a 45min stop for a second breakfast back at Laban Rata, we slowly descended with our Londoner hiking buddies, Esme and Nathaniel. I can honestly say that without the easy conversation, witty banter, and communal pain the four pairs of knees felt together, we would not have made it as well as we did. Our quick friendship was a life-saver. From the top to the pick up point it is 8.6 km and roughly 8,000 vertical -- we did it in about five hours.

And now, just five days later, our knees are still sore. We struggle to walk down stairs and I, with my classroom on the 3rd floor, am happy for an elevator at ASB. As the sore muscles ease there is little doubt in my mind that we had to push ourselves farther than ever before to accomplish this. But as I look back on our trip to Borneo, my lasting memories, my take away, will be the peaceful joy of watching the sun rise from 13,455 feet overlooking the island of Borneo.