Hiking Mt. Kinabalu

Growing up hiking, canoeing, portaging, skiing and in general having the imprint of a "walk-first" mentality has really shaped the way that we vacation. With several major hiking experiences under our belt (Yosemite and Dharamsala recently) we felt ready to tackle something a bit more serious. As we were planning our spring break trip to Borneo, hiking up Mt. Kinabalu just kept coming up and so we decided to go for it. After haggling to get the permit and room reservations, we had our spot -- one of 146 -- on the list to hike on April 4th.

We woke up at 6am on the 3rd of April to a carbo-filled buffet and a clear view of our target for the hike that day -- Laban Rata Guesthouse at 9,000 ft. You can actually see it in the photo below -- it's behind the small cloud, just above the center of the photograph.

After organizing our guide and finishing up the details involved with the permits/insurance, we began. The hike that day took about four and a half hours and we reached the guest house just around noon. We travelled six kilometers in length and up about 3,500 ft. As we hiked, we stopped frequently as the trail is pretty much straight up. Several sections are simply steps, others scrambling up rocky surfaces, and for a few luxurious moments you can actually get to hike at a decent grade.

Of course the surrounding environment is stunning. You start in the rain forest, travel through the cloud forest and end in the high alpine. Through the rain forest we were surrounded by orchids -- there are roughly 1,000 species in the park. Unfortunately, not all were blooming, but our helpful guide helped us find a few.

Staying up at 9,000 ft was a truly magical experience. In the evening we sat and watched the clouds form below us. As night settled in the stars came out. Since we were above the clouds the air was crisp and clear, we saw more stars that either of us had ever seen before. Stunning.

After a restless 'sleep,' we awoke at 2am to have a light breakfast and rejoined our guide at 2:30 to begin the final ascent. Our headlamps were pretty crappy, but the moon shone brightly as we followed a long white rope leading us up the rocky face. The dark morning hours passed so quickly as we were completely focused on the ascent, the white rope, and the stars above. At around 5:20 we reached the summit at 13.455 ft meaning we had traveled another 2.6 km and roughly 4,500 vertical feet in just under three hours. Not too shabby for a couple of music teachers. Needless to say, we were very proud to be up there.

We stayed at the summit almost an hour to watch the sunrise. We could easily see the lights of the city of Kota Kinabalu, a hundred km away, as well oil rigs out in the South China Sea and as the sun rose, we had a clear view of the northern coast of the island -- another hundred k's to the north. Having never summitted a mountain before, this peaceful calm combined with the rush of adrenaline, the crisp cold air, and the incredible sense of accomplishment was a unique feeling for both of us that we will never forget.

As we descended, which were told and we can confirm, we tackled the toughest part of the hike. With a 45min stop for a second breakfast back at Laban Rata, we slowly descended with our Londoner hiking buddies, Esme and Nathaniel. I can honestly say that without the easy conversation, witty banter, and communal pain the four pairs of knees felt together, we would not have made it as well as we did. Our quick friendship was a life-saver. From the top to the pick up point it is 8.6 km and roughly 8,000 vertical -- we did it in about five hours.

And now, just five days later, our knees are still sore. We struggle to walk down stairs and I, with my classroom on the 3rd floor, am happy for an elevator at ASB. As the sore muscles ease there is little doubt in my mind that we had to push ourselves farther than ever before to accomplish this. But as I look back on our trip to Borneo, my lasting memories, my take away, will be the peaceful joy of watching the sun rise from 13,455 feet overlooking the island of Borneo.